Unlike the picture above, radon gas is colorless and odorless. Radon occurs naturally. It is the decay of the elements radium, thorium and uranium in rocks and soil. Radon seeps up through the ground and into the air. In some cases, radon dissolves into groundwater and is released when water is used (when you turn on the shower or faucet).
Radon becomes a serious health risk when it's trapped in areas without adequate ventilation. In fact, any home that is tightly sealed with insulation and new windows is a home that should be tested for radon.
How should you test for radon gas? Radon levels can change when doors and windows are opened so a long-term test may be the better way to test for radon. In fact, the EPA has a consumers guide to radon reduction.
Once you have tested your home, you will receive results which are measured by picocuries per liter. This is a measurement of the radioactive decay of radon. While there is no acceptable level of radon exposure, the EPA recommends mitigation if the level is 4 pCi/L or higher.
Mitigation of radon gas is accomplished through ventilation. A pipe is placed under the concrete slab of the home and a small fan is inserted to draw the radon gas through and out of the pipe which vents outside of the home. The installers place a gauge on the pipe so homeowners can see if the pipe is working. The cost of mitigation varies but is usually in the range of $500-$1500.
- Test your home for radon
- If the test results show 4 pCi/L or higher, contact a radon mitigation company
- Be wary of companies that are significantly cheaper than the rest! You get what you pay for and you want to get this right
- Do check for references and the Better Business Bureau
- The work should take about a day or less
- The fan/motor has a low humming sound similar to the sound you hear from a dryer vent when it is in use.